I had a calm and very pleasant weekend in Lerwick, exploring the town. Got a bit soggy at times but still very scenic, especially the old harbour, but I picked up a knitted souvenir (I’m the proud new owner of a Shetland fisherman’s cap – now my project hat!). I had time to process some initial data and back up and organise so much of it – many many scans and images to keep me busy this autumn and I need to keep track of it all in an organised system!
On Monday I travelled to the Shetland Museum and Archive to have a meeting and a quick stop at the Shetland Amenity Trust’s impressive headquarters. I walked around the museum’s excellent exhibits for quite some time. It’s really well worth a visit and has a great restaurant upstairs – their seafood chowder is sublime. Also I always get excited when I see any merchandise depicting anything Iron Age (unfortunately the period really doesn’t seem to be promoted as well as the Roman or Norse times), so I had a shopping spree buying Mousa and Old Scatness memorabilia to add to my collection! (Thanks Andy for the bottle of Old Scatness ale, by Valhalla Brewery!)
Late afternoon I had a chance to get a quick wander around Clickimin broch, which was just wondrous, exploring the interior with no other visitors about. Even though it is close to the main road, being surrounded by water and a protective wall, it really feels isolated and eerie.
The ferry crossing to Kirkwall in the evening got a bit choppy but I slept through much of it, fortunately! It was an interesting procedure to reverse onto the ferry, and one that me and Andy went through again on Tuesday morning, to catch the ferry from Tingwall over to the island of Rousay. A brief stop at the delightful Betty’s Reading Room and we were off to Swandro!
On Thursday I visited Old Scatness and Jarlshof for the first time. Compared to Mousa, the scale of these archaeological sites are staggering: many roundhouses of different periods surround the central broch at both. As my supervisor Dr Val Turner showed me and colleagues around Old Scatness, James was busy getting laser scans around the site (once you start, you can’t stop scanning)!
Val interviewed me, Lyn and Andy for Radio Scotland about my PhD project and the vision for all three of these amazing Iron Age sites. Her recording was broadcast later that day and on Friday – first claim to fame! I’ll post here and on Twitter when I find out the exact time her more in-depth interview is broadcast.
After data swapping and backing up during lunch at the Sumburgh Hotel, we headed to Jarlshof. The HES team even had time to take a few initial laser scans around the site, following the permanent survey markers that Mike recently installed so the condition of the site can be monitored with accuracy in the future. The long history of Jarlshof is amazing (much more detailed info here: https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/jarlshof-prehistoric-and-norse-settlement/), but the fact that just half of the broch has survived to present highlights just how under threat many archaeological sites are from coastal erosion. The defences put in place at Jarlshof are strong, but it will be useful to monitor them over time and laser scanning can do this with great detail.
After our Historic Environment Scotland colleagues departed on Thursday, me and Andy returned to Old Scatness on Friday to acquire some more scans and take photography for SFM photogrammetry. I laser scanned areas of Old Scatness with the FARO Focus X330 that the long range Leica P40 may not have covered, and by the end of the day much of the site has been scanned and recorded. With permission from Sumburgh Air Traffic Control and DJI, Andy piloted the DJI Mavic SUA over Old Scatness to take aerial photos across the site, giving us excellent coverage which will help to feed into the terrestrial scan data and photos for photogrammetry.
Beautiful skies over Old Scatness
Test-run for my new knitted hat!
Overall the amount of data acquired on this fieldtrip has exceeded all my expectations! It’s going to look amazing once it’s all been processed (my next major step in the PhD). Tomorrow I’ll be visiting Shetland’s Archives and Museum, run by my external partner Shetland Amenity Trust (https://www.shetlandmuseumandarchives.org.uk/) to investigate historic records of my three sites. I’m hoping to get a better sense of their history from past researchers and their notes and images.
Things stepped up a gear in the last few days. We were able to safely access the intra-mural galleries inside Mousa broch – certainly not something to do without hard hats and safety gear! Deep in the heart of the broch you are very up close and personal with the meeting storm petrels – you can hear the chicks tweet within the walls.
Team photo (top): James Hepher, Mike Jack, Marta Pilarska, Dr Lyn Wilson, Li Sou, Dr Val Turner, Dr Andy Wilson
Me and Lyn recorded the broch interior with the Z+F 5016 – a scanner with intergrated lighting and HDR imaging, which made it ideal for recording in dark areas, like the intra-mural cells built into the base of the broch, and for very clear colour data of the wall tops (bottom right). James and Marta took many exterior scans of Mousa using the Leica P40 while Andy and Mike scanned the galleries and passageways. We also used a giant tripod to scan from high inside the broch ( below left).
We were all glad we brought our “on-site vehicles” (aka garden trollies) for moving kit across Mousa. It’s less than half a kilometre away from the ferry drop off point and a very leisurely stroll for those exploring the island without survey equipment, but we had the true “Shetland pony” experience of pulling and pushing our carts along with full loads of tripods, cameras and scanners! Many thanks to the kind staff of the Mousa Boat (https://www.mousa.co.uk/) for helping us with moving kit, taking us over to the island over the last few days and for sharing the fascinating history of Mousa.
On the final day at Mousa my PhD supervisor at Shetland Amenity Trust, Dr Val Turner, visited to see us in action. It was great to discuss this exciting project together, and the next day she showed us around one of the other Iron Age sites I am researching: Old Scatness (I’ll talk about this in my next post!). In the evening we visited St Ninian’s Isle and Sumburgh Head, where we saw many puffins (we might have taken as many photos of puffins as of the broch… they seem to love being photographed!!).
It’s the end of my very busy but absolutely fantastic first day (and first ever visit) in Shetland for my PhD fieldwork. Together with Andy from University of Bradford (who took the photo above of me pulling our equipment trolley!) and Lyn, James, Marta and Mike from Historic Environment Scotland, we crossed to Mousa with much kind help from the staff of the Mousa Ferry. Instantly we were greeted by Arctic terns and a curious seal! I’m crossing my fingers that we might spot an orca, dolphin or whale over the next few days on site, but the birds that nest within the walls of Mousa broch are delightful!
Nothing prepared me for the ridiculously dramatic landscape. As Mousa broch loomed ever closer, it’s sheer size and age really struck me. It’s an architectural marvel and the 3D data we’re collecting will be fascinating to investigate. We’ve already done quite a lot of scanning, which will continue over the next few days. Maybe with time to hire a Shetland pony to carry our scanning kit over the track to the broch! Fingers crossed the lovely weather continues too.
The bags are all packed and the survey kit is charged up and ready to go! Tomorrow I’ll be setting off for Shetland with supervisor Dr Andy Wilson, catching the ferry from Aberdeen and due to arrive into Lerwick early on Monday morning. We’ll be meeting up with colleagues from Historic Environment Scotland on the ferry and begin scanning of Mousa broch together in two days’ time! After that, the plan is to visit the other two broch sites I’m surveying for my PhD: Old Scatness and Jarlshof, and to visit the Shetland Museum and Archive to explore the collections the Shetland Amenity Trust holds. Hopefully there’ll be time to see some more brochs (after all there are over 100 of them in Shetland according to Canmore)!
From then on, me and Andy will be travelling to Orkney, to visit the excavations at Swandro on Rousay to help survey. The Knowe of Swandro encompasses a Neolithic chambered tomb, Iron Age roundhouses and later Pictish buildings and is under constant threat of coastal erosion, so it’s very important the Swandro – Orkney Coastal Archaeology Trust are recording the archaeology before it is washed away. This year’s excavation season just started this week. See http://www.swandro.co.uk/ for more details – they are blogging and tweeting every day from site! I hope there’ll be time for me to see more fantastic archaeology in the Northern Isles before I travel southbound to Lindisfarne, where a new season of excavations is starting soon… but I’ll save that for another blog post!
I’m aiming to keep track of our progress through daily blog posts or tweets (follow me @LZSou for Twitter updates), though I’ll have to see how good my internet access is first… Posts might end up shorter than my usual ones, as we’ll be busy checking and processing the data in the evenings, but I’ll see how things go.
Last week was the 20th Iron Age Research Student Symposium, held here in the University of Bradford (see above for the brilliant birthday cake that was made for the event!). I presented a poster that outlines the background to my PhD project, and looking forward to surveying the sites so there’ll be many exciting visualisations to create and display on my next one! VR presentation perhaps?
We had two full days of very interesting papers, and its so good to see there’s much exciting Iron Age research happening around the world from Masters and PhD researchers! Plus a fun pub quiz (I would be biased since I helped write the questions…) and an excellent curry dinner on Friday.
On Saturday I joined the traditional conference fieldtrip. This year to Hull for a guided tour of Hull and East Riding Museum by Dr Peter Halkon, who was directly involved with many of the projects from which many fascinating finds emerged, which are on display there. Many thanks to Peter and the organisers for such a great trip (and sunshine!). I always enjoy IARSS as it has such a welcoming and encouraging atmosphere for early-career researchers. I’m already looking forward to the next one, when I should have some exciting 3D data to present!
I haven’t posted recently as I’ve been delving into the existing archaeological literature on the three brochs I’m researching… Their histories are greatly varied, as are the ways in which brochs have been understood and interpreted over the years, so it’s fascinating reading! I’m glad the library has such an extensive collection in this area as I go through my data trawls and research to understand brochs better.
It’s interesting working in a new city. The university definitely has an inner city feel, in contrast to Durham where I previously studied, with close rail links (two stations!) which are a short stroll away. This is very useful considering I’ve attended several Collaborative Doctoral Partnership workshops, funded by AHRC, in London over the last couple of months. My office, in the Richmond Building, has amazing views of the city. Also, there is a tradition known as Cake Monday in the School of Archaeological Sciences, where staff/PGRs have baked goods in the morning and chat. Such a good idea!
I went to the Science and Media Museum (previously known as the National Media Museum) this weekend and was very impressed with its exhibits on the history of photography and film (looking at old stereographs has become a particularly quirky hobby for me – it’s Victorian VR!). There’s much more to this region that I need to explore while I’m based here!